My first visit to Karlovo was back in 2005 which seems like a lifetime ago now. We were supposed to arrive in the afternoon which meant I got to see the sights from Sofia airport all the way to the village we were going to live in. Unfortunately for us the plane from Athens to Sofia was delayed due to a bus driver deciding that the route under the wing looked very promising thus getting the bus stuck!!! It was dark by the time we arrived in Sofia and I slept the whole way to the village.
The following day we were taken by car to Karlovo and Sopot. The first thing I noticed as we drove the 10kms to town was the mountain. Oh how beautiful, it was gorgeous. I think the closest I had come to a mountain before was flying over them in a plane from somewhere to somewhere else. I was used to big hills, but the scenery was breathtaking. Then we started hitting the edge of town, I have to confess my first thoughts were what am I doing here. I was greeted by apartment blocks, unpainted and looking like they had been built 100 years ago, holes in the road, in fact the roads didn’t look like they had ever seen tarmac!
Everything looked so run down or unfinished. Brick buildings that had never seen plaster! As we drove towards the centre of town, the buildings started to change, more stylish and pretty, we crossed a bridge over the river which I was told runs down from the mountain. Ah that mountain again. Then we hit the cobbled streets which to be honest was great, more authentic, not be the best road to drive on in an old tank (we were in a very old Fiat something or other which was .……. a tank). Saw shops, cafes, more shops, Mr Finch (a kind of takeaway Pizza place) then we were out the other side. Driving along those holey roads again towards the town of Sopot. Now I knew nothing about Sopot.
Nice town, same as Karlovo, but smaller, apartment blocks, unfinished buildings, rough roads. Again, plenty of shops and café along the road side, the square is very large which houses a council building and some kind of other huge building. As we head towards the end of Sopot we turn of onto what we would call a dirt road yet classed as a side road here. We wind up the road and I see something in the sky. Didn’t think much of it until we hit a clearing and into a car park. A paragliding centre, wow, I did not expect this. Oh it was stunning, chutes all over the sky, people hanging round talking about flying in the café, I heard Australian, American and English accents as well as Bulgarian and was told Russian (both languages meant nothing to me at this point!) It was buzzing with life and amazing watching the flyers over head. There is chair lift that anyone can use, not just flyers, ride up to the take off point and watched the stunning views across the valley.
I could have stayed ages but we were ushered into the car and off to Karlovo we went. Oh these roads, you will not get me driving over here. We got to Karlovo and parked up in what I presume was a car park and walked into 20th July square. How lovely, a huge square with shops, bars, cafes, another pizza takeaway, little alleyways with more shops, statues, library, fountains (although not working) and oh, that mountain again. We stopped in the café and watched the world go by. Next we were taken to the old town, I could quite happily live there in one of the traditional houses. Absolutely gorgeous, so much history. Cobbled streets, little shops selling local crafts, the houses, peaceful, people walking rather than driving, little fountains with spring water from the mountain and tastes gorgeous and cold, churches, I was in love. Here you could hide away from the horrible concrete blocks.
This was my first impression. I was set to discover more delights Karlovo had to offer and the weird thing is that those concrete apartment blocks that stood out in my memory so much, started to blend into the background and not stand out as much as they did in the beginning. At the end of the day, there are huge apartment blocks in many towns throughout the world, why should here be any different.
I had done research through the net about Karlovo and continued to do so once I was here. I was soaking up details, stories and information. Karlovo was the birth place of Bulgaria’s national hero Vassil Levski. There is a museum dedicated to his life just opposite Mr. Finch on the main road through the town. The museum was built by local people who wanted to honour, teach others and remember this great man. The Levski family house was also restored and is part of the museum. Vodopod Street (meaning waterfall). Little did I know that above the town is a waterfall called “Schurum”. Walking up Vodopod street from the 20th July Square is a beautiful walkway that is closed to traffic. Children riding bikes, playing the park by the river, families, couples, peaceful. Doesn’t feel like the centre of a town! The walk is 1km in length and is well worth the trip. The waterfall is next to the power station, which is not what I expected, but is lovely. Set at the base of the mountain, yes that mountain again! There is a path you can take which takes you up the side of the mountain. Fantastic views across the town.
There have been changes over the last 2 years, many in fact. When Bulgaria entered the EU, I think quite a few people thought that changes would happen immediately, not a chance, but after a few months, changes were seen.
In the square is a mosaiced area and also the fountains I mentioned earlier. I had never seen the fountains working except the previous year during the Valley of the Roses Festival. One day, whilst sat in the local café we see a few men looking at the pattern, measuring, pointing, this was it, finally Karlovo was having some improvements, well overdue. Shortly after this time work began, the mosaic wasn’t being removed and something different being done, but the mosaic was having a make over. The flags and paving throughout the square was also having a make over and the fountains. We then realized that digging had begun down one of the main side streets. New water and sewerage pipes were laid, new drainage, we had a building site for months and months. I knew it would be worth it. It wasn’t all finished in time for the festival but the majority was. New paving, lantern lights, benches, flower pots and trees, some modern fountain features, what a difference.
The mayor of Karlovo had approved plans for improvements to roads and pathways starting with the main road through Karlovo. We were to have asphalt roads, including the ring road (which is an absolute nightmare, you wouldn’t believe it is a main road!!) and roundabouts at each end of Karlovo. We looked at the notices in windows. From 2007 – 2011 all the roads would eventually be replaced with asphalt, except for the roads through and leading to the old town (thank goodness for that, I would have had to complain about that). Also in the improvements would be a new sports stadium and small aqua park. Fantastic, more for the children in the area. Also, Vodopаd Street was having a make over with the paving on footpaths being improved and grassy areas being landscaped.
We now have 1 road completed with asphalt, and part of the main street done. The delay for only getting this done was due to the heat wave we experienced during the summer of 2007. The heat was so bad that workers would start work at 5 in the morning and have to finish at 11am!! The heat was unbearable. Trouble was that time was ticking and nothing was getting done. In the meantime, part of the ring road was dug up, being prepared for new pipes and asphalt. Other improvements were being noticed. A new basketball/football pitch had been erected, although at the moment this was damaged by a storm we had end of last year and are still waiting for it to be finished. Lots of park/play areas and paving were being constructed all over town, a skateboarding track, footpaths being repaired. New buildings being constructed offering more business and shops which in turn brings employment. The town was beginning to come to life.
I would say, so far, with all the work that has been done, nothing I can say is bad. I have noticed that some run down buildings have been knocked down and new ones are being erected in their place. It’s a shame they don’t do this more in the more touristy areas rather than building on more land, but that’s another story.
We do now have a new mayor. The plans that we used to read in shop windows about all the improvements being done in town have been removed. Two things spring to mind, either the new mayor is not doing any of the work planned by the previous mayor, or he wants to come up with his own plans for improving our town. Watch this space! more to come soon….
